Day 25 - Tuscan countryside

Today we had booked ourselves on a day tour by bus to San Gimignano and Siena and a Chianti winery. We had arranged to be picked up at the corner of the Piazza at 8:10 in the morning. We were up bright and early and on our way when disaster struck. Just outside our building is a kerb which was mostly invisible due to the presence of a couple of large outdoor restaurants. I saw it just in time but Warwick didn't and managed to roll his ankle. He was clearly in pain but decided to press on regardless.
First stop was the medieval hilltop town of San Gimignano, which involved an uphill climb to the village square and the possibility of climbing one of the many towers that are a feature of the town. Real people still live there but they have stuffed the town full of eateries and souvenir shops. Warwick was bearing up fairly well but not inclined to climb anything much less a tower. So we contented ourselves with a sit-down in the square and appreciation of the views.

Then on to a winery where we were to sample chiantis and other Tuscan wines. The roads seemed impossibly narrow for the bus and there were a couple of close encounters with cars. Another uphill walk got us to the winery. By this time Warwick was in serious pain with the ankle and feeling very unwell - clammy and faint. I was having nightmares about what we would do if the foot was broken or he couldnt last through the day. Ambulance trip to Florence? We do have travel insurance but the logistics could be horrendous. We had no painkillers and the tour group couldn't help either. On a Sunday there were no chemists open. Luckily a couple of English ladies came up with some panadol and he revived slightly.
On to Siena, a truly beautiful town with an old medieval quarter. We were to have a walking tour but we ended up spending the afternoon in the restaurant where we had lunch. On the way back we stopped at a medieval fort but had to remain in the bus.
The Tuscan countryside is beautiful with vineyards and fields for crops and a surprising amount of forest. The cyprusses are planted near the farm houses and are a distinctive feature of the landscape. I'd like to see more of the countryside one day.
On return to Florence at 7:30 pm there was still a lot of activity and many shops open including a farmacia where I was able to get some strong ibubrofen and an elastic bandage. Let's hope that will help.

Day 24 - Ultrarno

Today we set forth for Ultrarno - the other side of the River Arno in pursuit of artisan workshops, gelato and food. The town was really jumping on a Saturday and the Piazza di Signoria was thronged with tourists.

First we crossed the Ponte Vecchio, which is lined on both sides with jewellery shops. Apparently, it used to be butchers, but in 1593 the Medicis decided they had to go and it has been gold ever since. I don't know who buys the stuff or why and it didn't seem particularly cheap. On the other side there are more shops but they are distinctly down market.

We noticed a lot of people walking dogs - lots of little fluffy types, but also an unusual number of golden retrievers. The streets quickly took on a distinct smell of dog wee mixed with pizza and gelato. Delicious?

I bought a pair of leather gloves from a shop that sold nothing else - very reasonable - and it was hard to resist the leather handbags on sale everywhere - any colour, any size and most very reasonably priced.

Outside the Uffizi the living statues were having a big day and Cupid was flirting outrageously with all the girls.

Day 26 - to Rome

First concern today was the ankle. Bruised and swollen but better, thank heavens. The bandage seemed to provide a little support and the pain killers did their work.
Today involved some simple steps, or so I thought. Check out of apartment, catch train, catch transport to apartment in Rome, check in to Rome apartment.
We had arranged for the apartment guy to meet us at 10:45am in plenty of time for us to get to the station but when he didn't turn up we had to call the office to find that he wasn't working that day so we had a little bit of panic until his colleague arrived then a rush to the station - all unnecessary.
We caught the red trenitalia highspeed train to Rome's Tiburtina station. The trains are beautiful, clean and run at 250 k per hour and the trip took just over an hour - why can't Australia have something like this?
Tiburtina is brand new and designed to serve the high speed trains but utterly confusing and not just to tourists - we saw Italians running around shaking their heads too. We were supposed to be meeting a guy with a placard with my name on it but we had no idea where to look and each exit sign seemed to take us somewhere different. There were great empty halls that seemed to lead nowhere with no obvious exits to the street or car parks.
We consulted the ipad and found a new message - no guy with placard - ring Paolo. Paolo offered that he would send Michael in a black Audi but we had to stand near the news kiosk, but where was that? And it was raining by now. Eventually we found a news kiosk and hoped it was the one.
Michael eventually arrived, apologised for being late and then took us on the ride of our lives through the streets of Rome. I had not realised how expressive two fingers could be, how many things could be communicated to other drivers and how loosely traffic signals could be interpreted. What an experience!
He dropped us at the top of our street, Via dei Cartari, in the Centro Storico district of Rome. We found Riccardo waiting for us and were able to check into our apartment. It's a 'period' building with wooden beams and rather interesting artwork. It's also a bit dark because the buildings are so close together. So we are living like Romans in the oldest part of the city.

Day 23 - David and other treasures

This morning we set off for the Galleria dell Academia to see Michelangelo's David. More queuing but we were soon in. The statue of David is phenomenal, it seems alive and it is hard to move away from it. But of almost more interest were the unfinished sculptures by Michelangelo where you see the beautifully shaped limbs still encased in the rock.

There is a smaller collection of Florentine art but it seems better organised and better explained so we enjoyed it perhaps more than the Uffizzi.

Then off to the Duomo - what a magnificent building and so large. Inside though, it is undeniably beautiful but I felt it lacks the shock and awe value of the English cathedrals.
Onwards to the Mercato Centrale where you can find all manner of fresh foods, fish, meats, vegies, pastries, deli foods, spices. One stall was devoted to dried mushrooms. It's a pity we can't bring stuff home. It was fascinating to see a deli where the shopkeeper was carving wafer thin slices of Tuscan style brawn or salami at least a foot wide with a very large knife.

A pasta lunch in a trattoria was excellent - Warwick washed his down with a birra grande. We made our way back to the river and checked out the jewellers on the Ponte Vecchio and back to the apartment. And it is still 26 degrees.

I've included a picture of the reproduction of David in the piazza - sadly you can't photograph the original.

Day 22 - Treasures of the Uffizi

Thursday we had had the presence of mind to advance book our tickets for the Uffizi, which is just across the piazza and round the corner. After hot chocolate and pastries in the cafe outside our building we were away. After queuing until the precise moment we were let in, it was through security and up the stairs. And up, and up! How many steps are there? Noone seems to mention them before you arrive. I wonder how the halt and lame get on.

Upstairs and it is the lavish palace setting for the treasures of Florence. So many famous paintings by the most famous artists of all time - Nearly all religious of course and covering the same subjects - I am sure someone must have tallied the numbers of madonnas, crucifixions and other standard subjects. It's very hard to take it in in the throng of people pressing through. But truly wonderful and not to be missed.

After Uffizzi, we had to attend to more domestic matters. The one downside of the apartment is that it is located in the main tourist area and we hadn't been able to locate a supermarket nearby and we needed a few  supplies. So we took a taxi to the nearest Essalunga, which is a major supermarket. I must be easily amused but I find foreign supermarkets fascinating and this one was full of interesting stuff- italian olives and antepasti, pasta, pastries, cheeses in varieties we never see. They don't see the need for breakfast cereal and it was a challenge finding a few items but we got what we wanted.

Catching a taxi back was a problem but Warwick was able to get help from the Save the Children canvassers who came to our rescue. We definitely owe them a donation.

Back at the flat we could wash all the clothes and relax with a very nice prosecco and antipasta. Ah, this is the life. And it's 26 degrees again.

Warwick went off exploring and nearly bought a leather jacket. There will be much to see tomorrow.

Day 21 - Firenze

I have died and gone to heaven. Dear reader, if you are indeed a reader, you probably noticed that I have been very quiet over the last week. This was because we were mostly absorbed in domestic activities in England with family, although Warwick did have a special treat that I will write about in due course. I was also sick - still suffering with the cough and finally had to get to a doctor. And the weather, not to put too fine a point on it, was mostly shite. Below 10 every day.

Today we set off from Gatwick for Pisa and thence, by bus to Florence. Suddenly there is sunshine and sweat pouring off us by the bucketload. We took a taxi from the bus station to Piazza della Signoria, where our apartment is located. It crawled through impossibly narrow streets, shared with pedestrians to reach this most impressive square that is home to the Palazzo Vecchio and a replica of Michelangelo's David and just a stone's throw from the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi.

We soon rendezvoused with our host, the genial Alessandro of AM Tourist Consulting, who showed us the ropes in the apartment. I noted that his business card offers 'If you can afford it,we can make it happen.'I don't think we will offer any challenges in that department but I am sure he could.

The apartment is perfect, on the fourth floor of a traditional building looking out over the rooftops.

Now Florence is ours to explore. Already we find there are hundreds of specialty shops, restaurants, bars, gelateria. We just need to find a supermarket for some washing powder to do the smalls and all will be complete. We're just kicking back with a nice pinot grigio before dinner. Did I mention it's 26 degrees? I'll post some photos tomorrow.

Day 14 - Midhurst, West Sussex

We have spent the last two days in Midhurst, West Sussex at the Spread Eagle Hotel. It dates from 1650 and is a charming old place with lots of (real) beams and not a straight line to be seen. Nonetheless it is comfortable and clean and (Warwick is happy) the breakfasts are excellent.

Today we went out with Nikki to Chichester where we inspected the cathedral and the shops and lunched at Carluccio's (excellent). We looked at polo horses and Boyd's activities in training them.