Day 25 - Tuscan countryside

Today we had booked ourselves on a day tour by bus to San Gimignano and Siena and a Chianti winery. We had arranged to be picked up at the corner of the Piazza at 8:10 in the morning. We were up bright and early and on our way when disaster struck. Just outside our building is a kerb which was mostly invisible due to the presence of a couple of large outdoor restaurants. I saw it just in time but Warwick didn't and managed to roll his ankle. He was clearly in pain but decided to press on regardless.
First stop was the medieval hilltop town of San Gimignano, which involved an uphill climb to the village square and the possibility of climbing one of the many towers that are a feature of the town. Real people still live there but they have stuffed the town full of eateries and souvenir shops. Warwick was bearing up fairly well but not inclined to climb anything much less a tower. So we contented ourselves with a sit-down in the square and appreciation of the views.

Then on to a winery where we were to sample chiantis and other Tuscan wines. The roads seemed impossibly narrow for the bus and there were a couple of close encounters with cars. Another uphill walk got us to the winery. By this time Warwick was in serious pain with the ankle and feeling very unwell - clammy and faint. I was having nightmares about what we would do if the foot was broken or he couldnt last through the day. Ambulance trip to Florence? We do have travel insurance but the logistics could be horrendous. We had no painkillers and the tour group couldn't help either. On a Sunday there were no chemists open. Luckily a couple of English ladies came up with some panadol and he revived slightly.
On to Siena, a truly beautiful town with an old medieval quarter. We were to have a walking tour but we ended up spending the afternoon in the restaurant where we had lunch. On the way back we stopped at a medieval fort but had to remain in the bus.
The Tuscan countryside is beautiful with vineyards and fields for crops and a surprising amount of forest. The cyprusses are planted near the farm houses and are a distinctive feature of the landscape. I'd like to see more of the countryside one day.
On return to Florence at 7:30 pm there was still a lot of activity and many shops open including a farmacia where I was able to get some strong ibubrofen and an elastic bandage. Let's hope that will help.

Day 24 - Ultrarno

Today we set forth for Ultrarno - the other side of the River Arno in pursuit of artisan workshops, gelato and food. The town was really jumping on a Saturday and the Piazza di Signoria was thronged with tourists.

First we crossed the Ponte Vecchio, which is lined on both sides with jewellery shops. Apparently, it used to be butchers, but in 1593 the Medicis decided they had to go and it has been gold ever since. I don't know who buys the stuff or why and it didn't seem particularly cheap. On the other side there are more shops but they are distinctly down market.

We noticed a lot of people walking dogs - lots of little fluffy types, but also an unusual number of golden retrievers. The streets quickly took on a distinct smell of dog wee mixed with pizza and gelato. Delicious?

I bought a pair of leather gloves from a shop that sold nothing else - very reasonable - and it was hard to resist the leather handbags on sale everywhere - any colour, any size and most very reasonably priced.

Outside the Uffizi the living statues were having a big day and Cupid was flirting outrageously with all the girls.

Day 26 - to Rome

First concern today was the ankle. Bruised and swollen but better, thank heavens. The bandage seemed to provide a little support and the pain killers did their work.
Today involved some simple steps, or so I thought. Check out of apartment, catch train, catch transport to apartment in Rome, check in to Rome apartment.
We had arranged for the apartment guy to meet us at 10:45am in plenty of time for us to get to the station but when he didn't turn up we had to call the office to find that he wasn't working that day so we had a little bit of panic until his colleague arrived then a rush to the station - all unnecessary.
We caught the red trenitalia highspeed train to Rome's Tiburtina station. The trains are beautiful, clean and run at 250 k per hour and the trip took just over an hour - why can't Australia have something like this?
Tiburtina is brand new and designed to serve the high speed trains but utterly confusing and not just to tourists - we saw Italians running around shaking their heads too. We were supposed to be meeting a guy with a placard with my name on it but we had no idea where to look and each exit sign seemed to take us somewhere different. There were great empty halls that seemed to lead nowhere with no obvious exits to the street or car parks.
We consulted the ipad and found a new message - no guy with placard - ring Paolo. Paolo offered that he would send Michael in a black Audi but we had to stand near the news kiosk, but where was that? And it was raining by now. Eventually we found a news kiosk and hoped it was the one.
Michael eventually arrived, apologised for being late and then took us on the ride of our lives through the streets of Rome. I had not realised how expressive two fingers could be, how many things could be communicated to other drivers and how loosely traffic signals could be interpreted. What an experience!
He dropped us at the top of our street, Via dei Cartari, in the Centro Storico district of Rome. We found Riccardo waiting for us and were able to check into our apartment. It's a 'period' building with wooden beams and rather interesting artwork. It's also a bit dark because the buildings are so close together. So we are living like Romans in the oldest part of the city.

Day 23 - David and other treasures

This morning we set off for the Galleria dell Academia to see Michelangelo's David. More queuing but we were soon in. The statue of David is phenomenal, it seems alive and it is hard to move away from it. But of almost more interest were the unfinished sculptures by Michelangelo where you see the beautifully shaped limbs still encased in the rock.

There is a smaller collection of Florentine art but it seems better organised and better explained so we enjoyed it perhaps more than the Uffizzi.

Then off to the Duomo - what a magnificent building and so large. Inside though, it is undeniably beautiful but I felt it lacks the shock and awe value of the English cathedrals.
Onwards to the Mercato Centrale where you can find all manner of fresh foods, fish, meats, vegies, pastries, deli foods, spices. One stall was devoted to dried mushrooms. It's a pity we can't bring stuff home. It was fascinating to see a deli where the shopkeeper was carving wafer thin slices of Tuscan style brawn or salami at least a foot wide with a very large knife.

A pasta lunch in a trattoria was excellent - Warwick washed his down with a birra grande. We made our way back to the river and checked out the jewellers on the Ponte Vecchio and back to the apartment. And it is still 26 degrees.

I've included a picture of the reproduction of David in the piazza - sadly you can't photograph the original.

Day 22 - Treasures of the Uffizi

Thursday we had had the presence of mind to advance book our tickets for the Uffizi, which is just across the piazza and round the corner. After hot chocolate and pastries in the cafe outside our building we were away. After queuing until the precise moment we were let in, it was through security and up the stairs. And up, and up! How many steps are there? Noone seems to mention them before you arrive. I wonder how the halt and lame get on.

Upstairs and it is the lavish palace setting for the treasures of Florence. So many famous paintings by the most famous artists of all time - Nearly all religious of course and covering the same subjects - I am sure someone must have tallied the numbers of madonnas, crucifixions and other standard subjects. It's very hard to take it in in the throng of people pressing through. But truly wonderful and not to be missed.

After Uffizzi, we had to attend to more domestic matters. The one downside of the apartment is that it is located in the main tourist area and we hadn't been able to locate a supermarket nearby and we needed a few  supplies. So we took a taxi to the nearest Essalunga, which is a major supermarket. I must be easily amused but I find foreign supermarkets fascinating and this one was full of interesting stuff- italian olives and antepasti, pasta, pastries, cheeses in varieties we never see. They don't see the need for breakfast cereal and it was a challenge finding a few items but we got what we wanted.

Catching a taxi back was a problem but Warwick was able to get help from the Save the Children canvassers who came to our rescue. We definitely owe them a donation.

Back at the flat we could wash all the clothes and relax with a very nice prosecco and antipasta. Ah, this is the life. And it's 26 degrees again.

Warwick went off exploring and nearly bought a leather jacket. There will be much to see tomorrow.

Day 21 - Firenze

I have died and gone to heaven. Dear reader, if you are indeed a reader, you probably noticed that I have been very quiet over the last week. This was because we were mostly absorbed in domestic activities in England with family, although Warwick did have a special treat that I will write about in due course. I was also sick - still suffering with the cough and finally had to get to a doctor. And the weather, not to put too fine a point on it, was mostly shite. Below 10 every day.

Today we set off from Gatwick for Pisa and thence, by bus to Florence. Suddenly there is sunshine and sweat pouring off us by the bucketload. We took a taxi from the bus station to Piazza della Signoria, where our apartment is located. It crawled through impossibly narrow streets, shared with pedestrians to reach this most impressive square that is home to the Palazzo Vecchio and a replica of Michelangelo's David and just a stone's throw from the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi.

We soon rendezvoused with our host, the genial Alessandro of AM Tourist Consulting, who showed us the ropes in the apartment. I noted that his business card offers 'If you can afford it,we can make it happen.'I don't think we will offer any challenges in that department but I am sure he could.

The apartment is perfect, on the fourth floor of a traditional building looking out over the rooftops.

Now Florence is ours to explore. Already we find there are hundreds of specialty shops, restaurants, bars, gelateria. We just need to find a supermarket for some washing powder to do the smalls and all will be complete. We're just kicking back with a nice pinot grigio before dinner. Did I mention it's 26 degrees? I'll post some photos tomorrow.

Day 14 - Midhurst, West Sussex

We have spent the last two days in Midhurst, West Sussex at the Spread Eagle Hotel. It dates from 1650 and is a charming old place with lots of (real) beams and not a straight line to be seen. Nonetheless it is comfortable and clean and (Warwick is happy) the breakfasts are excellent.

Today we went out with Nikki to Chichester where we inspected the cathedral and the shops and lunched at Carluccio's (excellent). We looked at polo horses and Boyd's activities in training them.

Day 13 - Margaret Thatcher is the news item for today

Well, who could escape the news of the death of Margaret Thatcher. It has been most interesting to observe the commentary from all quarters about her life and legacy.

Today, when I had to return to my bed for some recuperation after my overnight ordeal I watched the speeches from Parliament. So interesting for what they said and what they did not say. Unfortunately I fell asleep after a while.

The funeral will be a most interesting event, I think.

Day 12 - Farewell to Erin

A bright and early start (with another excellent breakfast) and we departed Ballymaloe for the drive up the motorway to Dublin Airport. It took less than three hours to drive almost the length of Ireland to Dublin. Everything was grey and overcast, not a glimpse of blue sky or relief to the landscape.

Dublin Airport is modern and well organised and we easily checked in with Aer Lingus. The helpful check-in lady gave us exit row seats and we only had to wait. On Arrival in England, Nikki met us at the airport. We just had to pick up our car from the hire people. We had ordered a Ford focus or similar but ended up with a bright yellow Hyundai Veloster (hardly inconspicuous in West Sussex).

Nikki had arranged to meet us and had arranged for us to have dinner with her and Boyd and his Dad. They had chosen the Kings Head pub - winner of best pub for 2012 so we were in seriously nice gastronomic territory.

Unfortunately, at the beginning of the meal, I found myself feeling unwell. It was not long before I realised that I had taken a bait, I had some kind of very nasty gastric thing happening -let's just say that the situation was most undignified and lasted all night.

I hated being such a wet blanket but there was little I could do.

I think I am better now - but taking no chances.

Day 11 - Waterford

Today was a liesurely affair. We started off with yet another excellent breakfast. It was raining but we headed off for Waterford. We decided to give Blarney Castle a miss, it seemed such a tourist trap. I don't think we are going to benefit from the Blarney Stone.

The weather cleared in that it stopped raining but the day remained grey and there was a constant haze - we think it was some kind of smoke or smog. A bit like the Latrobe Valley where I was born and developed my chest problems. Waterford is a big city on a substantial port with a big old georgian quarter. We decided to visit the crystal factory. It was most impressive with modern showroom and factory and we took a tour of the workshops. The craftsmen are amazing but I did not envy them working constantly at their benches. Those making larger pieces needed a lot of arm and back effort - I hope they are getting decent pay.

Back at Ballymaloe we have our feet up and I took the opportunity to visit the cooking shop and bought some cake tins for Nikki. Hope she appreciates them!

Tomorrow we must make an early start for Dublin airport and the flight to England. we have loved visiting Ireland. The people are friendly, our accommodation and food has been great. But we couldn't live here. It's just too cold.

Day 10 - limerick to Cork

No photos today, folks. It was mostly pouring with rain so we saw Ireland as her usual self. After another excellent and substantial breakfast we headed to Tarbert on the Shannon River, Listowel, Tralee, Killarney, Cork and then finally, our current destination, Ballymaloe House at Shannagarry, on the coast.

It may be an unfair generalisation, but most of these places looked much the same as each other in the rain. It is also cold and I still have a cold so we mainly just drove. I can't help but think of Australia where every town, no matter how small, is clearly signposted. And every Australian town comes equipped with a small park and a free public toilet. Clearly, whoever thought up and implemented that concept was not an Irishman!

I am amazed at how many ruined churches, abbeys, priories, castles, mills etc we have seen that seem to be just there in the landscape with no signage or explanation. I am also amazed that there are so many ruined traditional houses and barns but everyone seems to live in a modern house that looks to have been constructed during the last 20 years or so.

Ballymaloe House is a special treat that we identified and kept for last. It is a country house hotel run by the Allen family. Myrtle Allen started a restaurant in the 60s. Her daughter in law, Darina set up a cooking school and her daughter in law Rachel is a television chef and author of many cookbooks. On Sundays dinner is a splendid banquet with five courses involving soup, pate, fish, meat and salads and desserts. It was truly delicious and we slept very peacefully afterwards.

There are opportunities for champagne and croquet on the lawns outside but the weather precludes any of that. We'll explore further in the morning.

Day 9 - Galway to Limerick

We spent the day a little aimlessly back through Loughrea to Portumna. We spotted a signpost to Yeats' tower and decided to check it out. I should have mentioned that the Yeats society had a set of rooms in Sligo and we paid visit. It seemed to be maintained by some strange old people. The displays were mainly ageing photos of the great man and his mates.
The tower is run by the same crowd but no longer open to the public.

I couldn't help thinking he was a rather vain sort.

We then turned west and checked out the Cliffs of Moher, which were spectacular. Thank heavens the sun was out and the wind was absent. We had to pay €3 for the privilege. The cashier guy had the sweetest accent. "that will be €3, so." I am fascinated by that "so" that is added on by so many people.

After the cliffs we adjourned to Limerick for the night where we treated ourselves to a stay in a very nice hotel located in the Georgian centre of the town. Have I mentioned food? We have had some delightful meals and last night's was no exception. Everywhere there has been an emphasis on fresh local produce. Dishes are not pretentious but are well cooked and not over priced - very different from our experience in England last time.

The full Irish breakfast is on offer everywhere and I have had to get Warwick to exercise a bit of restraint. You can't eat bacon, sausage, egg, black pudding, white pudding, mushrooms, tomato, baked beans, soda bread, potato bread and porridge every day without harm. At least I can't. We haven't needed lunch at any stage.

Day 8 - Ancestral trails

Our hotel in Bearna, just outside Galway City is a bit 70's gothic but comfotable nonetheless. Today we set out to explore the lands of the Keelys - my great grandfather, John Keely, was supposed to have come from Loughrea, in Galway. His birth certificate says he was born in Gort and his father came from Peterswell. All three places are on the same section of road within about 20 ks so it seemed likely that we would find some clues.

Loughrea is a pretty town on a smallish lake. The name means 'town on the grey lake'. It has a moat and town walls and an abbey' (not a priory, mind you). The abbey is a fully functional Carmelite outfit but there is also a ruined abbey with burial ground that we decided to check out. The ruins are courtesy of Cromwell. He seems to have been very active in Ireland.

When we arrived at the abbey we were greeted by a large gentleman, Mr Shaughnessy, who immediately picked us as tourists and asked where we came from. 'Do you have any Irish connections,' he asked. Well yes, I explained my great grandfather's presumed association with Loughrea. He involved his friend Emmet and they were immediately on my case to solve my genealogical origins. These guys were there in the graveyard to do voluntary cleanup and maintenance work on the graves and had actually catalogued all the burials in the graveyard so they thought they knew it all. They invoked another friend, possibly 4 ft 8in, at least 80 and with no teeth who had never heard of Keelys in these parts.

Emmet volunteered that one of his rellies had gone out to Australia in the fifties and one of his sons was now almost running the place. The name was Lougnane, did we know? Oh yes, we knew of Brian Loughnane and Peta Credlin. Apparently, he is due to visit Loughrea soon. Small world!

So we decided to head to Peterswell, just down the road where my great great grandfather was born. There is a new church there with no burials but we spotted a signpost to an old burial ground. Sure enough we found three Keely graves, which suggests that they were here at some time and may be still. The town of Gort is larger still and there may be other Keely possibilities.

It's interesting that there are so many monumental masons in Ireland and people have a culture of maintaining graves and graveyards. Even in very old graveyards we noticed that old stones had been replaced with modern ones and there are services to maintain or restore old stones.

Peterswell is also home to the St Thomas hurling team which has made it into the finals of the All Ireland hurling finals this weekend. All the houses were bedecked with red and blue bunting and flags. So I feel we must add our voices. Go the Toms!

Day 7 - Discovering the west of Ireland

Just before I get started on today's doings, let me show you a snap of the carpet in the hallways of the Glasshouse in Sligo. I don't know how it would affect you as you might navigate to your room after a few sherbets. (Not, I hasten to add, that that was an issue for us - our drinking was done in our room, away from the dreaded carpet). We mentioned the lack of the bedside lights - it wasn't that they had been broken or removed - they had never been installed. The reception staff feigned surprise. Weird, as I observed before, but the place was funky and interesting though I wonder what the designer was tripping on.

Before leaving Sligo we went for a walk and came upon the ruins of a Dominican Priory. We explored the site and learned how to tell the difference between your prioroes and your abbeys - very important in Ireland.

Then we headed south in the car through Ballina, Castlebar, Westport and Louisburg. All are picturesque old towns with  narrow streets. Amazingly, they haven't closed them off and made pedestrian plazas. We had a potential catastrophe with Bruce, our Tomtom guide. The charger disintegrated in the cigarette lighter of the car and had to be retrieved. It turned out thate we had blown fuses in both the car and the charger so we had a bit of challenge finding help with that. Thankfully, Bruce is back on deck.

We followed Bruce's directions south through the Dhulough Pass to Bearna, near Galway. This is a narrow route through the most breathtaking scenery. We were blown away by the magnificent vistas that opened up around every corner. There was little in the way of signs or directions to identify the mountains or to prepare drivers for the conditions. Here are a couple of pics.

It was remarkable how, even on very steep slopes of some of these remote places stone walls enclosed fields where farmers have tried to make a living in the past.

Day 6 - Cross country to Sligo

Today we headed cross country to Donegal and Sligo. One of the Irish guides at the Giant's Causeway pointed to the views south and said 'if you can't see Donegal, it's raining. If you can, it's about to rain.' but we have had a dry and sunny day with the temperature reaching about 7. Balmy!

On the way, we couldn't help but notice so many villages with housing estates where the houses are all built of breeze block and all completely identical. There are very few old houses left anywhere, although we did see a lot of stone ruins of houses and barns. Nearer to Sligo we saw a couple of old style houses with thatched roofs. But we also came upon an enormous estate of identical houses, many of which were empty or incomplete as a result of the economic crisis. I had read about this but it is truly confronting when seen in real life.

In Donegal we explored Donegal Castle, which dates from the 1500s. The plumbing arrangements were a little primitive. Apparently, they were designed so enemy archers could not hit you while you were availimg yourself of the facility.

In Sligo we are staying in a new hotel called the Glass House which bills itself as 'towering dramatically over the Garavogue River, the Glasshouse is the first design hotel of its kind - a glittering beacon of light and colour...' I've included a picture of our room but it doesn't really do justice to the luridness of the decor. The lime green curtains and the carpet are an assault on the senses. But it is very comfortable and smells new. If you look very hard you might notice that there are no bedside lights - just the wires they are meant to connect to. Weird!  

On the way to Donegal we passes Benbulbin, (very impressive mountain) and whizzed past Yeats' grave. Sligo is a very vibrant town with lovely narrow streets hugging the river and we will explore it tomorrow before we head for Galway, home of the Keelys.

Day 5 - The glens of Antrim and the Giant's Causeway

Today we headed out to find the fabled glens. I am sure they are beautiful when the trees are clothed in their foliage, and more so in autumn when they are coloured. But alas, in snow there is really only snow to be seen.

So we headed north to the Giant's Causeway. The National Trust runs a very slick operation and extracts £8.50 from each visitor. It has a superb visitors' centre that would put others to shame. Stonehenge, I'm looking at you.

I thought I was warmly clad with three layers on, but was unprepared for just how cold it would be. So I lashed out in the tourist shop on an Aran jumper - very necessary as it turned out. We walked the long track in the freezing wind. The rock formations are spectacular but I think I'm with Samuel Johnson who said they are worth seeing but not worth going to see. The slog back up the hill was very hard work for me, suffering as I am with the cold.

Back in the cafe we were able to find warm soup and soda bread to warm us up.

Day 4 - I can see Scotland from here

This is the scene we encountered

View from Ballycastle

Today we set off a-motoring to explore Antrim and its famous glens and to check out Warwick's mother's old stamping ground. It became obvious fairly quickly why Ann was attracted to the sunny climes of the antipodes. Did I mention the cold?

This is the scene we encountered

The countryside is spectacular. You almost expect to see Heathcliff come striding in. The old thatched cottages have all been replace by modern concrete or pebbledash places dating back to the post-war period butbthere are ruins of older places. I don't think Ann would recognise the place. She would be familiar with the snow and the tang of coal smoke in the air.

In the churchyard at Cloughmills Warwick had a spooky moment when we found the Smiley family grave and they had put his mother's name on the headstone along with her sisters.

We then drove along the coastroad from Ballycastle which is a port and important seaside resort.

Here is the view. the snowy waste to the left at back is Scotland. We drove along the coast looking out over the Irish Sea to our hotel, Ballygally Castle. It is right on the seafront and I daresay if you were completely deranged you could go for a dip. I left my cossie at home.

I was doing well despite the horrendous plane trip but I have now developed a bad cold - first one in months so I have been sitting up for a couple of hours trying to stop coughing. Hope it clears up soon.

Tomorrow we will set off for more family history - the Caseys at Lochquiel and seek out the fabled Glens.

On the way we skirted Belfast and saw directions to the Falls Road. It looked very uninviting and we won't be investigating further. I was surprised to see a couple of republican flags as we travelled.

More later